1. 6-8 mm Scale:

Microdioramas are meant for 6-8mm scale. Recently some major companies decided to rebrand their 6mm scaled models as 8mm, but it’s mostly splitting hairs. Keep the scale you prefer, as long as it’s not excessively far from what “Epic Scales” are.

1. Stick to the 2 cm Cubic Plinth:

We offer a standard hollow cubic plinth in various formats that’s tried and tested. But if you’re feeling adventurous, you can sculpt your own. Remember, it’s just a cube!

2. Preserve the Cube’s Integrity:

If you’re keen on showcasing underground scenes or cavities, consider setting the ground level above the 2 cm base. This way, you won’t erode the cube too much.

3. Mind the Height:

Keep your diorama’s total height under 8 cm, including the 2 cm plynth. Our standard render environment has its limits, and we wouldn’t want your work getting cut off at the top.

4. Keep Details Within Bounds:

Ensure all intricate details remain within the 2 cm square base. The only exceptions? Figures or vehicles. This maintains the diorama’s cutout feel, allowing for seamless side-by-side displays.

5. Vary Your Angles:

A dynamic diorama often features elements at different angles. If everything aligns parallel to the base, the result might feel a tad static.

1. Sign Your Work:

Add your signature or logo to the bottom of the plinth. We suggest using our provided plinth and engraving your mark on the bottom disc. Even if it’s a smidge hard to read post-printing, the 3D file will carry your signature.

2. Remesh Before Submission:

This step ensures fewer mesh issues when your work gets distributed. Your Microdiorama doesn’t need to be a single watertight object, but remeshing helps iron out potential kinks.

3. No Obvious IP Infringement:

Homages and reinterpretations are ok, but simply copying other artists’ or companies IPs can be a problem for us and for you. We know that the market wants that, but let’s not use that designs on Microdioramas.